The
ideal time to assess winter injury to trees and shrubs is after
new growth begins to emerge in the spring. Some injuries may not
show symptoms until later in the growing season, which can make
correct diagnosis difficult. Many plants have protective mechanisms
that should not be confused with winter damage. For example, some
plants will shed leaves (Nandina and Privet); some plants will roll
their leaves downward or the margins inward (Rhododendron); some
evergreens (Juniper, Arborvitae, Cryptomeria, and Boxwood) turn
a red, purple or bronze color.
Winter injury can occur in many different forms, including low
temperature/frost injury, winter desiccation, winter sunscald,
frost cracks, snow & ice breakage and rodent damage. Damage
symptoms include discolored needles or leaves, dead branches or
branch tips, heaved root systems, broken branches or girdled stems.
Low temperature injury can occur during the winter season when
unusually warm weather in autumn delays dormancy and is then followed
by early frost or drastic temperature fluctuations. Injury can
also occur in early spring when new growth emerges, followed by
abnormally low temperatures. Symptoms of low temperature injury
are foliar browning and dieback of buds, twigs and branches. Plants
will often leaf out, then collapse due to damaged cell tissue
in the vascular system.
Reducing the occurrence of winter injury can be accomplished
by following some guidelines. Be sure to select hardy plants.
Growing plants that are winter hardy or native will reduce the
effects of low temperature/frost injury. Avoid fertilizing plants
with high nitrogen late in the summer so new growth is not promoted.
Injury to young growth or insufficiently hardened tissues may
still occur as a result of unusual weather patterns. Injured and
dead tissues should be pruned out to discourage invasion of the
plants by diseases and/or insects.
Winter desiccation or 'winter burn' is usually observed in late
winter or early spring on evergreen plants. Broadleaved evergreens,
such as rhododendron, exhibit browning on their leaf margins.
Narrow leaved evergreens can exhibit slight browning of needle
tips to browning and premature abscission of entire needles, depending
on the extent of the injury. Winter desiccation occurs more drastically
on sunny and/or windy winter days when plants lose water from
their leaves through transpiration faster than it can be replaced
by the roots frozen in the soil.
To prevent or reduce the effects of winter desiccation, make
sure plants are properly watered during dry periods in the autumn.
Thoroughly hydrated plants are less susceptible. Placing a protective
barrier of burlap around small evergreens will act as a windbreak
and reduce the rate of desiccation. The barrier can also shade
the plant, avoiding warming by the sun. Antidessicant sprays applied
to evergreens may reduce water loss. Follow label directions for
use. Research results are mixed on whether or not antidessicants
are effective.
Winter sunscald usually occurs on the south or southwest sides
of tree trunks and branches. Young and thin-barked trees are most
susceptible. The bright winter sun warms the bark during the day.
The bark cools rapidly after sunset causing injury and even death
to the inner bark in those areas. Symptoms of winter sunscald
are elongated, sunken dead areas in the bark.
Wrapping the trunks of susceptible trees with tree wrap is the
most effective way to minimize this type of winter injury. If
a tree wrap is used, it should be removed after one season to
prevent insect or moisture damage. In commercial orchards, it
is customary to paint the trunks of trees white to reflect the
winter sun, reducing the buildup of heat during the day.
Frost
cracks are splits in the bark and wood of a tree. They are caused
by rapid drops in temperature that freeze the water within the
trunk, forcing it to explode or split open. If not severe, the
cracks can heal themselves by callusing over. However, many times
the cracks reopen again the following winter. Frost cracks can
be compounded by internal defects within the wood. Defective wood
does not contract as readily as the outer layers of healthy wood
when winter temperatures decrease rapidly.
Care should be taken to avoid trunk damage of trees, especially
when young. Frost cracks in trees are ideal entrance sites for
wood decaying organisms and insects.
Heavy snow or ice on weak branches with foliage can result in
breakage. Evergreens are especially susceptible. Sometimes even
strong branches from deciduous trees can be broken if the weight
of ice or snow is extremely heavy.
Properly pruned trees and shrubs can reduce the accumulation
of snow and ice collected on the branches. Removal of weak branches
and those with acute or narrow angles can help reduce breakage.
Avoid late-summer pruning that stimulates new growth.